Xenia Snyder-Collison
@xeniasnydercollison751687
11 months ago
A CULTURAL ODYSSEY
They say that travel is the only thing you can buy that will make you richer. I never thought such a concept would hit me, but one fateful day I was proven wrong.
I remember it clearly like it was yesterday. That day was Saturday—a beautiful Saturday morning. I sat in a public transport-like minibus, popularly known as 'trotro'. I was heading to my hometown, Elmina.
The journey was quite long and I unknowingly took a little nap. However, as the vehicle approached Elmina, I woke up. The seaside scenery of the coastal road began to attract me, making me realize the beauty of this new adventure. I jotted down a few landmarks and researched them on my phone. This helped me understand their importance in the town.
Soon the 'trotro' stopped at the intersection of Edina Essaman, a village on the outskirts of Elmina. I spent the night there with my cousin Geraldine, whom I had come to visit. I was staying for a week - both to assist my cousin (who was a single mother of three) with chores and to learn more about my hometown.
On Monday, after completing a multitude of household chores and taking a moment to recline, Geraldine, my cousin, offered to show me around town. She was on a work leave, and so could have the time to act as my tour guide around Elmina. I agreed, and we got ready before setting off.
"Ready to unravel the tales of Elmina?" Geraldine's eyes sparkled with excitement as she asked. "Absolutely!" I answered. "I'm excited to dive into the enchanting stories of Elmina with you!" With that, we went into town.
Our first stop was the majestic Elmina Castle, an awe-inspiring structure that told stories of resilience and history. As we walked through its corridors, Geraldine's vivid narration painted pictures of the transatlantic slave trade, making me appreciate the cultural richness embedded in the it.
"Look at the mixture of colonial and African architecture,” Geraldine declared as we walked through the streets. “Wow, almost everything here is rural, yet very captivating,” I replied, marveling at the buildings around us.
The structures told the stories of a city that gracefully embraced its past and present, creating a harmonious architectural melody. Vibrant markets filled with vibrant colours and crafts also beckoned. In cooperation with local craftsmen, we discovered the pulse of their artistic spirit.
“These crafts carry stories passed down from generation to generation,” explained Geraldine. As I nodded thoughtfully, I commented, "That's interesting."
Geraldine's charm extended to the locals, who welcomed us with open arms. Their friendly demeanour made me feel like I was a part of Elmina's extended family - Yes, the people of Elmina were very friendly, not only on paper but in reality.
On Tuesday, we delved deeper into Elmina's wonders. Coastal beauty unfolded on sandy beaches where colourful fishing boats danced with the waves. The scenery was postcard perfect. The educational legacy came alive as we delved into the town's commitment to Christianity and formal education.
The city's role in spreading Portuguese pidgin added linguistic richness to our survey. For example, I discovered that the words "paano" (bread) and "asopatser" (shoe), as used by the Fantes in Elmina, are partly from Portuguese.
The rhythm of the drums led us to a local cultural festival known as Bakatue, where we immersed ourselves in traditional music, dance and art. I had heard somewhere that "Bakatue" is a Fante language term that means "opening the lagoon" or "sweeping the way". It symbolized the traditional ritual of cleaning the way to the sea.
The Bakatue Festival, like most others, is an annual event celebrated to usher in the fishing season and ensure a bountiful harvest from the sea. As we watched, the festivities began with a ceremonial procession where traditional leaders, decked out in royal attire, led the community ashore. Prayers and libations were offered to gain the favour of the sea gods. Then elders and fishermen cast symbolic nets into the ocean to invoke prosperity.
The atmosphere was filled with joy as locals engaged in various cultural activities including traditional dances, boat races and feasts. The local cuisine wafting around became a sensory delight as we enjoyed some of the variety of seafood dishes such as Banku (locally known as "Etsew") with Okro Soup, Jollof Rice, Coconut Rice with Prawns, Fried Calamari, Abolo with Pepper Sauce, Smoked fish with plantain, among others.
Warm waters and stunning beaches like the Elmina Beach itself and the Coconut Grove Beach Resort offered tranquility and natural beauty that captivated my senses. As I walked past the local schools including St. Joseph's Catholic School, Edinaman Senior High School and Elmina Methodist Junior High School, I couldn't help but be impressed by how committed the residents were to formal education. In fact, these people were known to have made the first direct contact with the whites during the colonialism era, so it was no wonder they loved and cherished education immensely.
We further chanced upon local businesses and artisans as we explored the street markets and included a vibrant tapestry of goods. The traditional clothing styles of the locals added a visual spectacle to our trip.
On the third day, the shadows of environmental concerns began to emerge before my eyes. Plastic waste littered the streets and beaches, and this made it quite an unwelcoming sight. Geraldine saw the look of disappointment in my eyes and sighed. We both recognized that even a place as beautiful as Elmina had it's limitations.
Apart from plastic waste, the impact of overfishing was evident - signs of stress on the local ecosystem were evident. The sight of "saiko", fishing trawlers, indicated environmental degradation. Lack of awareness exacerbated these problems and I felt a responsibility to act.
The ensuing Saturday arrived, and so it was time for me to return to my home in the city. When I said goodbye to everyone, I carried not only memories, but also a sense of accomplishment. At home, I reflected on the knowledge I had gained and decided to explore ways to contribute. Waste management initiatives, sustainable fishing practices and community development caught my attention. With the help of social media, I found organizations in Elmina trying to achieve these goals and decided to support their efforts.
I ended up appreciating Elmina even more because I saw it as one of the most unique cities in Ghana. This trip not only enriched my understanding of the city's history and culture, but also instilled a sense of responsibility to contribute to its preservation. Traveling really enriched me in ways I hadn't expected.
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